The £19 Wine That Shouldn’t Exist – Petrolo Torrione Review

I set myself a bit of a mad challenge the other day. Find a red wine under £35 that ticks all three boxes. A 17+ from Jancis Robinson, a 95+ from Robert Parker and a 93+ from Wine Spectator.

In my head, this was going to be one of those nice idea, doesn’t really happen moments. The kind where you get close, maybe two out of three, but never the full set.

And then I stumbled across a bottle on the shelf for £19.

When Scores Actually Mean Something

The wine was Petrolo Torrione 2021.

Now normally I try not to get too carried away with scores. They’re useful, but they’re not everything. We’ve all had wines that are highly rated and just don’t land for us.

This one was different.

Jancis Robinson had it at 17+, Robert Parker at 95 and Wine Spectator at 93. That’s not just good, that’s serious agreement across three very different palates.

At £19, it didn’t make sense on paper.

So I bought it.

In the Glass

From the first smell, you could tell this wasn’t your average sub £20 red.

Loads of cherry coming through, a bit of plum, but what I liked most was that savoury edge. A little bit of tobacco, a bit of dried herb, something that made it feel grown up rather than just fruity.

In the glass it just felt complete.

The tannins were there but not aggressive. The acidity kept everything fresh. The oak wasn’t shouting at you. Nothing was out of place, nothing was trying too hard.

It’s one of those wines where you take a sip and immediately relax because everything is where it should be.

What This Taught Me About My Palate

This is the bit I find most interesting.

I’ve realised I’m not chasing big, bold, over the top wines. I like wines that feel balanced and put together. Wines that don’t try to impress you, they just are impressive.

That same thread runs through a lot of bottles I’ve enjoyed recently. That middle ground between fruit and savoury, structure and drinkability.

This sat right in that zone.

It also made me realise something else. When a wine like this lines up with the critics and with your own palate, that’s when scores actually become useful. Not because they tell you what to like, but because they confirm you’re on the right track.

The Dangerous Thought

As soon as I finished the glass, I had the thought.

What does this taste like with a bit of age on it?

Because if the 2021 already has this level of balance and structure, then a few years in bottle should start bringing out those deeper, more savoury notes. More leather, more dried fruit, more of that complexity people always talk about.

That’s when wine really starts to get interesting.

So now I’m on the hunt for an older vintage. Something like a 2016 or 2015 to see how it evolves.

Why This One Matters

This wasn’t just a nice bottle of wine.

It felt like a bit of a breakthrough.

Finding something at £19 that drinks like that, with that level of critical backing, gives you confidence. Not just in the bottle, but in your own taste.

It makes you realise there are still gems out there if you look properly.

And more importantly, it makes you want to keep exploring.

Petrolo Torrione 2021 £19 inc VAT @ Costco