From Lidl Bargain to Ashtray Disaster: Why This Cabardès Wasn’t for Me

There’s something exciting about finding a bottle that looks like a hidden gem and this week, I thought I’d found one.

Tucked away on the shelf in Lidl was a Cabardès AOP from Famille Beynaguet, priced at just £7.99. The label looked promising, the region intrigued me, and on paper, it seemed to tick every box.

A potential bargain. A classic “wine journey” moment.

But as I quickly discovered not every promising bottle delivers.

The Promise: Cassis, Raspberry, and High Hopes

On the nose, this wine had me immediately interested.

Bright cassis. Fresh raspberry. Clean, inviting fruit.

Exactly the kind of profile I’ve been gravitating towards recently fruit forward, vibrant, and approachable. It felt like something pretty serious and that it might punch well above its price point and I thought we had a bargain on our hands.

Then came the first sip and that was that!

What started as promising fruit on the nose turned into something completely different on the palate:

Ashtray. Smoke. Dust.

That dry, lingering, slightly bitter sensation that completely strips away the enjoyment. The kind of flavour that overpowers everything else and leaves you wondering what just happened.

It wasn’t subtle either it absolutely dominated the wine.

What Went Wrong?

Cabardès is actually a fascinating region in the south of France. It’s one of the few places where:

• Bordeaux grapes (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot)
• Meet
• Rhone grapes (Syrah, Grenache)

In theory, this creates a perfect balance between structure and warmth.

In practice especially at lower price points it can lean towards a more rustic, smoky, or that wild style.

That ashtray note I picked up is often linked to:

• Brettanomyces (a natural yeast that can create “farmyard” or smoky flavours)
• Heavier Syrah influence
• Less polished winemaking

Some people enjoy this character it’s often described as “earthy” or “savoury.”

But for me, it’s not what I’m looking for at all.

What This Taught Me About My Taste

If anything, this bottle was incredibly useful. It helped clarify exactly what I don’t like which is just as important as knowing what you do.

Right now, my palate is clearly leaning towards:

• Clean, polished fruit
• Bright acidity
• Subtle spice
• Minimal funk or “rustic” character

Which explains why I’ve been enjoying wines like Chianti Classico, Super Tuscan blends, and more modern Spanish reds.

Where I’m Heading Next

Rather than writing this off as a bad experience, I’m using it as a stepping stone.

This week, I’m heading to a proper wine shop with a much clearer idea of what to ask for or research more clean, fruit driven reds with complexity and to be fair that’s the beauty of this journey every bottle, good or bad, sharpens your understanding.