Viña Tondonia 2013, Picanha, Lamb Chops and an Unexpected Champagne

Some Bottles Are More Than Just Wine

Every now and then a bottle comes along that reminds you why you fell in love with wine in the first place.

This wasn’t supposed to be some grand tasting. It started with a barbecue at my mum and dad’s with Liv and Eden. The plan was simple enough. Pick up some decent meat from the local farm shop, grab a bottle of Rioja and enjoy a family evening in the sunshine.

What unfolded was one of the most enjoyable wine experiences I’ve had in a long time.

The Wine

I had originally gone looking for a 2012 Viña Tondonia Reserva but the shop only had the 2013 vintage. Rather than being disappointed, I ended up walking away with the bottle for £47 and looking back, I’m quite glad things worked out that way.

The wine was decanted and left alone for a couple of hours while we got on with the rest of the day. By the time I poured the first glass it had opened beautifully.

The colour was stunning. Somewhere between ruby red and old cognac, with that evolved brick tint around the edge that tells you this is a wine with a bit of history behind it.

The nose immediately stopped me in my tracks.

Cherry and spice leapt from the glass. The coconut I often associate with traditional Rioja was there but much more subtle than expected. Instead, cinnamon seemed to take centre stage. The longer I sat with it, the more it reminded me of Christmas cake. Not in a sweet way, but in that layered combination of dried fruit, spice and warmth that seems to reveal itself one aroma at a time.

A Lesson In Elegance

What struck me most was the contrast between the wine’s body and its intensity.

The colour suggested something delicate and the first sip reinforced that impression. It felt light, almost Pinot Noir-like in weight, yet somehow carried the flavour intensity of a much bigger wine.

The finish was fascinating.

As soon as I swallowed, I found myself thinking the wine had disappeared. Everything seemed to fade away before suddenly reappearing with another wave of flavour. It was almost like the wine was playing tricks on me.

One moment it seemed gone, the next it returned with another layer of spice, dried fruit and savoury complexity.

The whole experience reminded me of something Heston Blumenthal might create. Not because the wine felt artificial or engineered, but because it seemed to unfold in stages, revealing different things at different times.

The Food

The local farm shop came up trumps.

We picked up some minted lamb chops and a pair of picanha steaks from home reared cattle at Taylors Farm in Burscough. Nothing overly complicated, just quality meat cooked over charcoal.

The lamb was excellent, but it was the picanha that stole the show.

The wine and steak seemed to understand each other perfectly.

By this stage the tannins had softened considerably, but what remained was enough to frame the beef beautifully. Rather than dominating the meat, the wine seemed to highlight it. Every bite of steak tasted more like steak after a sip of Tondonia.

That might sound strange, but it’s the best way I can describe it.

The wine wasn’t adding flavour. It was revealing it.

Those are the moments that make food and wine pairing so rewarding.

An Unexpected Twist

Just when I thought the evening couldn’t get any better, mum discovered a bottle of Lanson Le Black Création 258 sitting in the fridge.

At this point the Rioja was gone, so naturally the cork came out.

The contrast couldn’t have been greater.

After an evening of aged Rioja, steak and lamb, the Champagne felt like a palate cleansing sorbet. Everything suddenly became fresh again.

On the nose I found myself thinking of apple tarte tatin. Fresh orchard fruit combined with a subtle pastry character.

In the glass it was all apples and pears with a burnt pastry finish that lingered beautifully.

It was crisp, refreshing and exactly what was needed after such a rich meal.

Final Thoughts

Wine nights rarely go exactly to plan, and that’s often when they become memorable.

What started as a family barbecue turned into an evening that showcased two very different but equally brilliant wines.

The Viña Tondonia 2013 was the star. Elegant, complex and endlessly interesting. A wine that didn’t shout for attention but quietly demanded it.

The Lanson arrived later and played a completely different role, lifting the palate and providing the perfect finale to the evening.

If there was one takeaway from the night, it’s that great wine doesn’t always need a tasting room, a notebook or a formal setting.

Sometimes all you need is good company, a barbecue, a couple of exceptional bottles and the willingness to slow down and pay attention.

Score: 95 Points